They give clear, concise answers in interviews, they’re funny, and very experienced in the art and science of training for climbing. Kris Hampton: I mean, I think these guys have pretty much covered it. The one thing I would add is that if all you have is a hangboard and you’re trying to add all of this extra time and extra training, you’re going to burn out and lose motivation much faster, most likely, than your normal training would have. Neely Quinn: Yeah, I bet a lot of people can probably relate with that. When to know that this is too much and training just needs to take a backseat. Steve Bechtel: I’m just too busy so I’m not exercising at this time. Norbert graduated from Olpe High School and Hutchinson Community College. Also, I have my kids at home now so we’re trying to do homeschooling with them and it’s giving me a whole new respect for teachers. I think that if what you were doing before was working, then there is no reason to try to ramp it up. Also, I have my kids at home now so we’re trying to do homeschooling with them and it’s giving me a whole new respect for teachers. I got them all together. I don’t ever really do that even when I get injured, really, and when I get injured I’ll be training some other part of my body. Neely Quinn: Well congrats! You’re going to ramp right back up into it and I think the main thing to keep in mind is, ‘Yeah, I need to keep strong and keep fit and whatever else but it’s all going to come back.’. That’s personally what I like. How to be motivated without current performance goal. Not to say that one person’s version of those is better than the others but I think within a few weeks’ time frame, most people are going to be very, very tired of doing push-ups and squats and burpees. Did they maintain? By most accounts Amy and Steve were deeply in love. Kris is the owner and head coach at Power Company Climbing, which is a climbing training company that offers online coaching and coaching clinics around the world. or Without further adieu, here are Steve, Kris, and Tom. If you don’t, just be okay with not holding onto it at its peak. It gets a lot of people really motivated. I see my next door neighbor taking calls in his car in his driveway. If you’re having a hard time with a move, if you’ve spent time in this place where you’re really intentional and really aware, then you’re going to be able to pick apart the tiny parts of that movement faster and be able to put them back together in the right way faster as well. They’re both off school and they now get homeschooled. [laughs] No, that’s kind of where everybody is going. When we start broadening the loading spectrum there it opens up a lot of worlds to us. It’s good to put challenges within exercises themselves because it challenges you mentally and I think it’s good to not end up becoming that climber who is just the wooden plank that is really good at hanging off an edge but literally moves like a metal fork. Keep that balance of focused training in your time at home. I enjoyed each moment of this interview, and learned quite a bit. I was totally joking but that was a really great answer to my dumb joke. There’s no point in doing some amazing fingerboarding regime, whatever it might be, if you can’t deal with money coming in the door. You can develop core tension really well through bodyweight progressions and things like that. I’ve just made sure that I do what I think a lot of people should do and just take whatever tools and things you want to do in the home and make them super accessible. We received some questions on our Facebook group and I’m going to use some of those and you guys also have some common questions that are coming through. Stick to your rules. This would make this easier,” and you can mess with those progressions and regressions. I really appreciate them sitting down and giving us a bunch of wisdom for free and doing it all together. Can you give me an example of some of the workouts that you’re having people do with very little equipment available? Neely Quinn: Yeah. The more habits you have, the less energy you have to spend maintaining all these other things. I’m actually going to stay on you because I don’t want you to feel like you’re last every time. Figure out about how strong your fingers are. Tell us why, if we’re normally climbing for two hours 3-4 days a week, hanging on the hangboard is not a good direct substitution for that. It takes a bit more time but can also be maintained with very little detriment to other parts of your climbing training activity and your time use within the home environment. Bechtel lives in Lander, Wyoming where he owns Elemental Performance + Fitness Gym and runs the climbing training program known as Climb Strong. Do you think it matters what finger protocols people choose to do? I see my next door neighbor taking calls in his car in his driveway. I’m a big fan, also, of varying the volume of hangboard training throughout the week. What I want to do is I want to replace my system board training with a deadhanging session. You can do this with just general strength exercises as well if you’re really intentional and trying to be really aware of how your body is moving, what your tension is like, what muscles seem to be working the most in different parts of the movement. It’s just kind of like a giant whirlpool of every day being a bit different than the previous. In general, what do you think people should be doing at home? You can still be at home and go through the guidebooks, talk to your partners, plan your next season. His guys over at Elemental and ClimbStrong are superb trainers. Steve Bechtel: You know, it’s real interesting. He was born May 6, 1945, in Emporia, to William and Elizabeth (Brown) Bechtel. I need somebody to just tell me what to do with training because I don’t like thinking about it. The other end of the spectrum is to take your bodyweight movements and to add explosiveness. Then you put a foot in each Theraband so it takes a load of assistance but it has some give in it. People are trying to fill all of that time with exercise or training. I don’t want to give away my home address. You can kind of pull it out of the bag for one week or two weeks when you really make massive changes but some of us might be down there for four weeks, eight weeks, maybe even longer in some countries. There is an element to it that should feel familiar. I’m going to start with you, Kris, on this. Those are expensive to maintain so when we stop doing endurance activity with a certain muscle group, like our forearms, that tends to de-train pretty quickly. Secondly, get people to sit back and go: ‘What were the core things that really motivated you as a climber? There’s movement flows and all sorts of calisthenic things that you can practice and really spend time being intentional in those things, instead of just going through the motions. Kris has this quaranteam area of his website. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. Fifteen years ago we never imagined it. If I’m going to try and train at 2:30 in the morning that’s going to suck. You can find that at, That’s all I’ve got for you today. 5.0 out of 5 stars 1. I really do like the tempo-style, slow pace like Tom was mentioning. I don’t want to take up too much of your time but I think a lot of people are wondering if there is any way to train skills or movement or even body tension. Use that time to be tactical and to perform and to feel like a climber or someone who is performing again. Afficher les profils des personnes qui s’appellent Steve Bechtel. They’re pretty broad-based and so you can use those for a lot of things, even though it’s primarily what you would call a strength endurance stimulus, like the classic 7 seconds on/3 seconds off, they’re still good strength gains there. Richard Nixon named him to membership on the National Industrial Pollution Control Council, the National Commission on Productivity, the Labor Management Advisory Committee, and the National Commission for Industrial Peace. I would say anything beyond what you were doing before is likely too much at this point. I think it’s quite a good way of looking at this, like thinking, ‘What can I get away with?’ and it’s a good way to baseline what you would put into your training regime back at home. You mentioned motivationally and I want to pivot to motivation because it seems to be on a lot of peoples’ minds. It’s no good for anyone. TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2 Neely Quinn 2020-02-23T16:43:26+00:00. We know it’s not specific. I really appreciate them sitting down and giving us a bunch of wisdom for free and doing it all together. I’m interested in trying it now, though. I’m keen to do a mixture of flexibility and mobility work but I think it’s really good to do some weighted work as well for the higher end climbers. Play with your kids. Where can everybody find you guys? Most of the things I’m doing right now are somewhat flexible. Please accept Echovita’s sincere condolences. I’ll come down here and workout on the bouldering wall or on the campus board and I’ll usually just do that on a somewhat regular schedule, about three days a week. If we look at our home setups, most people may have a little set of dumbbells and a hangboard, and some of them are actually in a shelter in place order where they aren’t supposed to be leaving the house except to go shopping. Then Ellen will do that on the opposite days and I’ll be at home with the kids. He is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS) and holds a degree in Exercise Physiology … I think the most important thing is for people to think in the long term, not like, ‘I need the world’s strongest fingers in the next three weeks.’ They need to be thinking about the fact that now is an opportunity to work on things that they might not normally be able to address. Most of us are used to doing a 1 second down/1 second up push-up or the same thing with our pull-ups. The capillarization is the thing which I think has more value in trying to maintain. They are three of the most well-known trainers in climbing, and having them all sit for the same interview and answer the same questions created a wealth of knowledge and wisdom for us all. I want to know what you guys think is too much for people to be doing right now, in terms of how many hangboard sessions and how many strength workouts per week. I live in Lander, Wyoming and I have a climbing gym, fitness center, and I also do climbing coaching through a company called ClimbStrong. It will come back as soon as you get back into it. Tom Randall: I think as Steve said, this stuff does come back. We’re left here trying to train at home and maintain the strength and fitness that we’ve gained from training this year and beyond. All I want to do is watch TV.’. Like Tom and Lattice, we’re also a mostly remote, mostly online company that works with climbers. Combine those and add those together and that might be a more appropriate replica or substitution for that session. It’s really weird. FREE Shipping by Amazon. Tom Randall: Yeah, it’s very definitely an online and remote-focused work that we do but because it’s a fairly sizable team, it affects the dynamics of how you work. I agree with Tom totally that you should try to take what you were doing before and keep that same level, that same frequency, and not ramp it up massively. You’re training but you’re resting adequately. Lastly, one other thing that I say is always too much is: just at it hard all of the time and never taking a break. We’ve tried to provide you guys with a lot of resources on the site at TrainingBeta. Kris Hampton: Like you said, it’s going to be very different depending on your training history and what level you were at prior to this. While it’s not a good idea physically to do it, I think it’s not a good idea mentally and motivationally as well. In terms of how it’s kind of affected us, it’s just kind of changed the way we work with our athletes and clients. Even just hanging bodyweight is quite hard on the fingers and it’s the exact same loading direction if you’re just hanging on a board. 3,674 Followers, 1,203 Following, 419 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Steve Bechtel (@stevebechtel) Go test and see how strong your fingers are on a certain edge then do your training for 2-3 weeks. Neely Quinn: I kind of want to go into this ‘training too much’ thing because I think you guys are right. Like, to look at what Sam’s got to do and at what our daughter Annabelle has to do, and then try to fit our work around that. Neely Quinn: Okay. In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they’re guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic. Don’t try and train. I think that’s good for our psyche as well as for our bodies. Steve Bechtel: Yeah, I think that trying to go like, ‘Oh man, I really want to keep this particular skill honed-up,’ is just going to end up in frustration. That program is an ebook and you can find it on TrainingBeta at trainingbeta.com/covid. We can have anything sent to our house on a moment’s notice. See more of Steve Bechtel Adult Color Pages on Facebook. So basically, for the first two weeks I actually did, for once, what I would tell my clients to do which is: if your life is in that much disarray and everything is too hard and you don’t actually have the time, just go easy on yourself. He went on to co-create Lattice Training with Ollie Torr (who also has been on the show), where he and a team of coaches use data driven tools to help climbers around the world get stronger. One is I think it’s really useful for most people to do a sort of reality check and realize – and this is a conversation you have to just get going – that if things like their personal safety, their health, or their uncertainty of life are really affected by anything at the moment, and everyone is kind of on a different part of the spectrum, it’s a good conversation to have to say if any of those three factors or all three in combination are significantly affected, you are going to struggle with motivation. It’s a hard transition to make emotionally. Lyndon B. Johnson appointed Bechtel to the President’s Committee on Urban Housing. Is it possible to still train skills or climbing movement? It feels like you’re on a board. In my situation I work from home and I’m usually here by myself all day and now I have my wife, who is a social worker at the schools here in Lander, at home and doing Zoom meetings with her colleagues as well as with students. Steve Bechtel remained the prime “person of interest” in Amy’s disappearance for many years. I think that’s good for our psyche as well as for our bodies. I think things like farmers’ lifts, pinch block lifts, kettlebell work, and dumbbell work in with hangboarding. I’m stuck. He earned his Master of Business Administration degree from the Stanford Graduate School of Business in 1948. Then Ellen will do that on the opposite days and I’ll be at home with the kids. Tom Randall always has great information and blog posts and podcast episodes and information for everybody to use right now. I understand there’s a certain level of emotional cost to this whole thing but this is so easy compared to any other eventuality. It’s really motivating as well because it’s really hard coming back from an injury of 3-6 months. He also hosts the Power Company Podcast, and was behind the mic for different reasons as a rapper in a former life. Kris, do you have anything to add to that? He just put out a new book, his first book, called The Hard Truth. I’ve always fancied one of those online Zumba classes. Yeah, I bet a lot of people can probably relate with that. You can find me on Google and @latticetraining on Instagram, or something. That question was one that I think is quite relevant to lots of people. Neely Quinn: I have one last question for you guys and this is more of a cautionary question. Those adaptations are expensive for your body to maintain so if we let even our general capacity for exercise drop off, that’s very hard to nail back when we start getting back in shape for climbing. Is there any burning question that you guys have that you want everybody to answer? Fifteen years ago we never imagined it. There are a lot of components to skill and becoming better at any skill that don’t involve necessarily doing that exact skill. I’m your host, Neely Quinn, and unfortunately right now a lot of us are not able to take part in our favorite sport because unfortunately COVID-19 is still a pandemic in our world and a lot of us are on lockdown, including myself. Can you give me an example of an exercise you can put a lot of skill into? Steve, would you like to comment on endurance? Anyone else tried that? Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world. I’ve been explaining to people that if you still want to do some work which you can’t do heavily weighted and you still want to have a strength stimulus, one trick up your sleeve that I think a lot of people forget about is massively increasing the duration of each rep so slowing the movement down. I’ve lost everything so now I need to be even more focused than before.’. If you have some amount of perspective, the thing I would remind people is we have been living in very, very easy times. I think, as Steve said, one of the things that’s really important to realize is that most people go from this balance where they put aside a certain part of their week where they might do some quite focused work where they’re trying to make improvements, so what we put in the ‘training’ envelope, and then another part of the week will just be in the ‘general practice/having fun/unstructured work’ and that will go on that side of things. The 3-6-9 Ladders hangboard finger strength training routine was developed and popularized by Steve Bechtel, who is a well-known climber, coach, and writer. I’m going to start with Steve and we’re going to go through everybody. You’ve got enzyme activity, mitochondrial function, and capillarization, so delivery of oxygenated blood at a localized level in the muscle. Steve Bechtel's Climb Strong features climbing training articles and training programs for bouldering, rock climbing, and alpine climbing. Talk to you soon. One is I think it’s really useful for most people to do a sort of reality check and realize – and this is a conversation you have to just get going – that if things like their personal safety, their health, or their uncertainty of life are really affected by anything at the moment, and everyone is kind of on a different part of the spectrum, it’s a good conversation to have to say if any of those three factors or all three in combination are significantly affected, you are going to struggle with motivation. Cool. Image source: Gordon Wiltsie. I’ve actually even been looking for ways to stay motivated. As Steve said, depending on how long this goes on for, I think some people are going to find that if they spend huge amounts of time with their arms above their head doing this high intensity work they may need to look at different arm and shoulder positions, body positions, and work out ways to train in a more balanced and appropriate way. We should start with the things that we do. I know this is very different for everybody but in general, do you have any recommendations on that just to keep people from totally messing themselves up? Do you think there is any way to do that at home? Neely Quinn: Oh my god, you’re the worst. It’s difficult to say. Once we’ve hit that adaptation threshold, anything over that point is just moving into that area of injury so let’s do a variety of things that might help us but then we’ve got to stop at a reasonable amount of time. The following programs are the ones that we think are most helpful during this time of at-home training. Steve has written a prolific number of books on the topic of climbing training, even while running a gym and a website, raising a family, and climbing outside regularly at an elite level. If you find yourself with all this free time and you’re filling all that free time with extra training, maybe consider finding a hobby that you’re going to enjoy. I’m just too busy so I’m not exercising at this time. We’re really limited in that way. I think that maintaining a general aerobic or cardiorespiratory capacity is the base of it and the honed-up anaerobic power stuff that people really think of as their endurance for climbing is hard to hold onto anyway. If you’re not going to get back to the route that you’re excited about that you need that endurance for until the fall, then maybe you don’t need to be so concerned about hanging onto that endurance right now. I’ll have a phone call at this time, I have to do programming at this time, so we each had a calendar that we worked from anyway. I’ve been hearing about people who can’t even get weights on eBay and is it called Craigslist in the US?  He is the 1980 recipient of the Hoover Medal which commemorates the civic and humanitarian achievements of engineers. You can do that on a hangboard, too. We had the old habit of going down the street to the climbing gym, going to the crag on the weekend, visiting Whole Foods, whatever it was. Like, to look at what Sam’s got to do and at what our daughter Annabelle has to do, and then try to fit our work around that. Steve Bechtel’s 3-6-9 Ladders hangboard finger strength training. Basically just find new performance goals within the circumstances. Pay attention to the aspect of when they’re in the sun, when it’s good for you to be on your project, when it’s good for your partner to be on their project, and plan out the season as best as you can. Perfect Paperback $28.95 $ 28. You can also, like Kris was saying, keep the ability to move well by doing different floor-based movements. Steve Bechtel, Jr., (pictured)led the global engineering and construction firm his father Warren founded until 1990. Alright, I hope you enjoyed that interview with Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall. I’ll have a phone call at this time, I have to do programming at this time, so we each had a calendar that we worked from anyway. He also heads the Performance Climbing Coach seminars that teach climbers and coaches how to be and create better athletes. So I’m going to start throwing questions out there. I guess I can go on the fingerboard at the same time, yeah? Neely Quinn: Cool. I have three guests and I have never had three guests before so we’re going to try to be as organized about this as possible. From the conversations I’ve had with lots of people I think they’ve tended to go, ‘Oh, I’ve got to do so much now. Kris Hampton: Yeah, no, don’t do that at all. What I was going to do is a 6-8 minute max hang session on my fingerboard and replicate that out.”. He is the son of Stephen Davison Bechtel Sr. and grandson of Warren A. Bechtel who founded the Bechtel Corporation.. To have things a little bit more difficult is, I think, good developmentally for all of us. Everything in our lives is very, very easy. Tom’s got some great endurance workouts, all the way from basic aerobic capacity all the way up, that are very simple. Steve Bechtel: We always have had a lot of structure, my wife Ellen and I, with our coaching and training. The thing that is really important for people to understand is that with isometrics, anything over about 70% of your maximum is still going to provide a strength stimulus. That’s great stuff to do because it maintains that skill set. Kris is an instructor at the Performance Climbing Coach seminars where he focuses on movement skills, coaching, and mindset, drawing on wisdom from his former sports of gymnastics and skateboarding. Your new habit is going to involve new things and you need to start enforcing those because habit becomes an anchor on which you can reduce your stress. Stephen Davison Bechtel Jr. (born May 10, 1925) is an American billionaire businessman, civil engineer, and co-owner of the Bechtel Corporation, with his son Riley.He is the son of Stephen Davison Bechtel Sr. and grandson of Warren A. Bechtel who founded the Bechtel Corporation. I want to at least be able to get back to peak performance pretty quickly. That’s a very southeastern thing, right? Neely Quinn: Cool. You guys, Tom and Steve, have young kids. Maybe I’m just giving you credit for something. First, I’ll say that I asked Tom the other day for a voice note for an episode I’m going to do and it came with his home address attached to it, so I’ll send that out to everybody. I mean, I think these guys have pretty much covered it. All of those guys have created really great resources for you through this time. You have to be realistic about that, first of all. 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